Installing an Alarm System on Footloose

December 2000

Since we plan to live in Footloose when I retire, I naturally want to make sure that someone doesn't abscond with everything that we own while we are not home. The are companies that make alarm systems specifically for RV's but I simply could not afford to pay $500.00 to $1500.00 for this when it essentially does the same thing that a common automobile alarm does. Actually the requirements are less since I am not overly concerned about carjacking or any fancy passive arming functions.

I eventually settled on a Crimestopper Rage II automobile alarm for Footloose. The specific model is CS-9709DC but I believe that it is obsolete now, which makes it cheaper. The current model with similar features is CS-2000. This alarm has a number of features that make it very advantageous for Bus Conversion use:

As with all current automotive alarms systems, this one requires 12 VDC to function. This was no problem with footloose since I am using a 24 VDC house battery system and obtaining 12 VDC using a Vanner Equalizer. The 24 VDC house battery system has other advantages which I will detail later.

All automobile alarm systems require 12 VDC switched ignition to function correctly. It is used on the Rage II for control and programming in conjunction with a supplied "valet" pushbutton switch.
It is also used for automatic "passive" arming and "carjack" functions.
Since my bus ignition system is 24 VDC and I really did not want either of these functions, I replaced the ignition input line with a small toggle switch that is connected to +12 VDC.
I mounted both this switch and the small "valet" pushbutton switch on a small aluminum panel that is hidden in back of a compartment in my overhead up front. This allows me to control and program the system when required.

I mounted the siren in the spare tire area underneath front end of Footloose and the control module is mounted in my overhead where 12 VDC was readily available.

This alarm is also supplied with a shock sensor that monitors vibration via the vehicle chassis. On Footloose I used a vertical metal strut in my overhead which functions very well for any minor vibration in the front area of the coach. I intend to add another sensor in rear of coach at later date to monitor that area. The harness supplied with this sensor is pretty short and I don't thing it was intended to be too far away from the control module.

At this point, I have a basic functional alarm system that will trigger on any vibration or loud noise in the front area of Footloose.
The only real problem is related to the RF remotes. The control module has a short length of wire hanging out of it that functions a a receive antenna for the remotes. Since the unit was designed to mount behind an automobile dashboard where there is a lot of surrounding metal, it is extremely sensitive.
I mounted it in my overhead which is about 10 foot in the air and is primarily surrounded by a fiberglass cap.
I can trigger the darn thing from over 100 ft. from coach and the remotes are not very well designed to prevent accidental triggering( buttons are not recessed).

I have since added some other auxiliary functions that make the alarm more useful:

The Rage II is supplied with a relay output circuit that is supposed to turn the dome light in auto on for 30 seconds when it is disarmed. Footloose has two entrance lights adjacent to the door that function on 12 VDC.
I simply tied the Dome Light output line into the circuit feeding these lights then connected the input source for this feature to +12 VDC. Now, when we come home after dark, we will be able to see where to put the door key.

This is an isolated relay output on the Rage II that can be connected to any voltage source to supply a triggered output that mirrors the low level chirps you get from the siren. (1 chirp=armed, 2 chirps=disarmed) I think it also cycles in alarm mode. Since my house battery system is 24 VDC and my engine battery system is also 24 VDC I pulled a line from the house battery into the overhead and connected the source for this relay to same. I then connected the relay output to my ICC clearance lights (Terminal 15 in front junction box on my MC-8).
This works great and I can not only hear when the alarm is enabled or disabled but can see the lights flash. My coach is parked about 100 foot from our house and I can now tell which mode the system is in without opening a door to listen for siren chirps. By using my house battery for all alarm functions, I can safely disconnect the engine battery when we are parked.

This is a momentary output that is triggered when the second button on the remote is pushed. I have not done anything with this yet but am looking for some 12 VDC latching relays which will allow me to toggle a circuit on or off with it.

This is a second momentary output that is triggered when the second remote button is depressed twice in 3 second period. I will probably use it also when I find some latching relays.

I will also be adding door switches and other sensor inputs later. Just like any other bus conversion project, it is never finished.

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